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Thread: Doll making questions

  1. #11
    lilithskyblu's Avatar
    lilithskyblu is offline Excruciatingly Enchanted
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    UGG!, I can't find that doll making forum I thought the name was "the joint"? Does anyone know that forum and the correct .com for it? THANKS!

  2. #12
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    What color porcelain slip should I order if I am looking to make dolls that are NOT white-white?

    Like what Marina would call "rose" and "peach" are what I think I would like.

  3. #13
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    I'm debating which colors of Ultra Chic slip to order. I may order smaller jars than a gallon and try some out, I want a light flesh and a light warm brown. Laura told me her Ultra Chic turned out bright pink so I'm scared! Good luck picking!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tencats View Post
    I'm debating which colors of Ultra Chic slip to order. I may order smaller jars than a gallon and try some out, I want a light flesh and a light warm brown. Laura told me her Ultra Chic turned out bright pink so I'm scared! Good luck picking!
    It is very hard to choose. I'm still just looking because I need to make a bit more money before I can delve into my porcelain doll ideas.


    But if it helps, try sorting them by "most popular." It gave me an idea of which ones must work well because people order them a lot, and which ones don't turn out as nicely.

  5. #15
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    Good advice, I finally managed to obtain a copy of Martha Armstrong Hands books. I bought it off of ebay but think somehow it once belonged to a forum member. I have a question though, and was hoping someone could clue me in. The metal rods that are in the porcelain to hold the springs.... how are they put in? Before or after firing? How do they get them flush with the porcelain and what kind of metal is used? Just curious, does anyone know???

  6. #16
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    Good question and I wanted to know the same thing. I found answers off woodlandearthstudio, but since have read the same things elsewhere. I have not gotten that far with my doll yet so I am only repeating what others have said. I guess you can use straight pins like for sewing, for the rods, but I am still wondering if there isn't something better. You poke the holes in the porcelain with the pins while it is still soft after pouring, and before the first fire. Then when all the firing and painting has been done and you are ready to put the doll together, then you can glue (probably a resin based glue) the pins in and make them flush with wire cutters. That is the abbreviated version though. Check out the forum I mentioned for a better explanation and some nice pics as well.

  7. #17
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    Thanks Ella, I guess that makes sense, but I just wondered about porcelain shrinking and wouldn't that make the holes to small after firing?

  8. #18
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    I have wondered the same thing, but don't have the practical application to tell you for sure. I have actually wondered as well if it would work the other way and make the hole too big.
    Last edited by Ella; March 26th, 2013 at 06:50 PM.

  9. #19
    lilithskyblu's Avatar
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    You definitely should use an instrument bigger in diameter then the pin you will use on your doll to make the hole on the soft porcelain, because the hole does shrink. Nothing worse then not having a pin small enough to fit the hole. Also right before you put everything in the kiln, look at the holes again because sometimes a little porcelain "crumb" will lodge itself in the hole and then you have a blocked hole. What's easy to remove before going in the kiln is near impossible to remove when it comes out.

  10. #20
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    I wonder if the melting point of metal is higher than porcelain and the pins could be positioned and left in during firing. I know there is nichrome wire that can be used during high firing, but it isn't a stringent as pins and I don't think it could hold up to the springs on it. Plus perhaps leaving the pins in during firing would cause the porcelain to crack. So many questions..... Oh, I am no where near to this point but a girls has to have plans.

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